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      CommentAuthoreggman
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    Mmkay, longish story:

    About a month ago my drivetrain started suddenly making this terrible creaking noise. I suspected the bottom bracket and took it to Back Bay Bikes. They told me my chain had worn out (cheapy KMC chain), and they sold me a Shadow Conspiracy chain. That seemed to have fixed the problem. However, I've grown tired of the chain, and it takes about two hours of fancy maneuvering to put it together with a regular chain tool because it requires their special (and expensive) tool, so I figured I'd go with something I could more easily fix if I needed to. I bought a D.I.D track chain (which are supposed to be fairly decent) and slapped it on my bike, but now the terrible noise is back! I tried making it really tight, and then I tried loosening it, and nothing has seemed to work.

    So yeah, if anyone has any ideas of how I couldn't eliminate the problem, that would be fantastic.Ella: Not that I would EVER even THINK of taking the T (mainly because my penis is too large to fit in it)
    • CommentAuthorbluedog
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    are your drive train and chain the same size?that's when I reach for my revovler...
  1.  
    Has your fixed cog/freewheel worn to the point of replacement?clockwork ted: this is my favorite thread. sweet BJ alexi!
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      CommentAuthoreggman
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    bluedog:are your drive train and chain the same size?
    Do you mean 1/8 vs. 3/32? If so then yes, they are the same size.

    estratton:Has your fixed cog/freewheel worn to the point of replacement?
    It's possible but I'm not sure. It doesn't seem like that would be the problem since it was fine right before I changed the chain, but I planned on changing my cog to a different size anyway, so as soon as I can get my lazy ass out to get a chain whip I'll change it.Ella: Not that I would EVER even THINK of taking the T (mainly because my penis is too large to fit in it)
  2.  
    i had horrible creaking problems a couple of months ago, and it turned out that one of my cranks was rounded and creaking on the bottom bracket. new crank fixed it.
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      CommentAuthorhowl
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    It's pretty likely that the shadow conspiracy chain wore out your drivetrain. Wouldn''t make a lot of noise before you changed the chain, since they were both worn out, but when you replace the chain, you'll get the horrible noise.
    Those shadow conspiracy chains are a terrible design, and should be avoided.

    Look at the teeth on your chainring and cog- are both sides of the teeth the same shape?Troglodytarum is latin for troll
  3.  
    timmybicicleta:i had horrible creaking problems a couple of months ago, and it turned out that one of my cranks was rounded and creaking on the bottom bracket. new crank fixed it.


    I had a horrible creaking problem and it turned out the frame had a crack in it. Oops.Word nerd
  4.  
    shit now im worried about the creeking noise my bike started making after putting brand new sugino 75s on it :/ride bikes for money not for fun(unless your drunk)
  5.  
    ^If I remember right, the taper on the 75s are a little different than shimanos. If you don't have a Sugino BB, you might not have tightened them enough.Word nerd
    •  
      CommentAuthorhowl
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008 edited
     
    Rob Gigantic:I had a horrible creaking problem and it turned out the frame had a crack in it. Oops.


    Me too! Nothing like flipping the bike over, intending to see if the cranks are tight, and seeing the chainstay hanging on by a sliver of metal.Troglodytarum is latin for troll
  6.  
    my geekhouse creaks like a motherfucker. i was thinking it was the bottom bracket but i also have one of those kool chains. now it sounds like it could be coming from the headset. its super fucking annoying. if my cranks are fucked up i'll be pissedHUUUUUUUUUUUT!!!!!!!
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      CommentAuthormur
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008 edited
     
    if your bikes are creaking primarily when seated on the saddle, and even more so when cranking with increased effort (e.g. up a hill), it may just be the saddle. for a week or so on my road bicycle i had a creak that (while riding) sounded like a bottom bracket issue, but some slight tightening of the saddle to the seatpost mount made for quiet time.~(..,)~ (oYo) make whoopee not war (oYo) ~(..,)~
  7.  
    it only creaks when i stand up and put pressure on the barsHUUUUUUUUUUUT!!!!!!!
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      CommentAuthormur
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    ^ then check the stem/bar clamp. also possibly the fork/heattube/headset interface.

    note that in some cases, tightening a clamp too much will also result in a creak: the material failure creak, which is far less desirable than the loose-clamp creak.~(..,)~ (oYo) make whoopee not war (oYo) ~(..,)~
  8.  
    i fixed it! the headset was a little loose. so lame. hutHUUUUUUUUUUUT!!!!!!!
  9.  
    ^Shit Jesse, I might have to take that bike away from you 'till you learn to take care of it!
    -bot[all your base are belong to us]
  10.  
    you can have it.HUUUUUUUUUUUT!!!!!!!
  11.  
    Rob Gigantic:^If I remember right, the taper on the 75s are a little different than shimanos. If you don't have a Sugino BB, you might not have tightened them enough.


    ya thats what i had heard but its only comming out of one side...do you think it could possibly be bad for the cranks if i leave them on the shimano bb, i do mind the creak it just makes me worried i might dieride bikes for money not for fun(unless your drunk)
  12.  
    ^Unless were talking catastrophic failure, I suspect you'll be ok, just periodically tighten your crank bolts. To silence a persistent creak, I've resorted to using high strength thread lock compound applied to the meticulously cleaned BB taper & crank prior to instillation. That's probably a stupid thing to do but it worked. Generally it is a bad idea to use any sort of lube on the taper 'cause you can deform the crank, but in your case that may allow you to get a tighter fit. (Wow, it was hard to resist sexual innuendo. . .)

    Probably you should consult a mechanic.

    -Robot[all your base are belong to us]
  13.  
    thank you sir!ride bikes for money not for fun(unless your drunk)
    • CommentAuthorboundgear
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    You won't die. It might creak though. iso/jis isn't a big deal. Sometimes resetting your cranks can make it go away.

    always check your crank bolts. I've had slightly loose ones make noise. and your seat. they make noise too. Damn near everything can creak.
  14.  
    Now if only I could get my goddamn Miche cranks to shut up![all your base are belong to us]
    •  
      CommentAuthorg0balistik
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
     
    try tightening your chainring bolts. especially if they are alloy. that has been the source for me in the past.
  15.  
    also to go back to other problems i have noticed that when you change just a cog or just a chainring it makes this crazy sound because of the friction in the new areas compared to the other worn in component. always change the chain cog and chain ring at the same timeride bikes for money not for fun(unless your drunk)
  16.  
    ^+1.You're purposefully attempting to sabotage my degree project. Thanks.
    • CommentAuthorraff I el
    • CommentTimeSep 9th 2008 edited
     
    drivetrain and other crunchies just mean less having to yell at peds. i get paranoid when my bike stops making noise.Geryon was a monster everything about him was red.
  17.  
    robotbuilder:Now if only I could get my goddamn Miche cranks to shut up!


    Mine is nice and quiet :-D

    g0balistik:try tightening your chainring bolts. especially if they are alloy. that has been the source for me in the past.


    Ditto. Sadly didn't notice till one was gone. Hooray for spares.clockwork ted: this is my favorite thread. sweet BJ alexi!
  18.  
    ok so my noisy drivetrain comes from my rear axle slipping in the track ends. i have a tuggnut on the drive side, now the non-drive side slipped. two tuggnuts/tensioners/whatever seems a bit silly.

    any suggestions? besides "stop hitting so many bumps".DFL and DTF :D:D:D:D
    • CommentAuthorsaucy
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2008
     
    while on the subject of squeakin and the like:

    for those familiar with the shimano octalink system (as in the not square taper that dura ace has), after a while the cranks loosen their grip on the bottom bracket

    how do i tighten the crankset fully? when the inside of the crank and the bottom bracket get dirty it doesnt get a snug fit right? ive cleaned as best i can (but not neccessarily as possibly clean as the cranks can get) and tried rotating the cranks to fit in all the possible positions on the bb but nothing seems to stay fully tight after a mile or so. im hoping this wont mean having to replace cranks or bb. just wondering if anyone has had this problem and/or knows how to remedy it
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      CommentAuthorrobotbuilder
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2008 edited
     
    ^There are two versions of Octalink and they are not compatible, but stupidly Shimano didn't design the spline so that they wouldn't fit together. So if you're putting a V1 crank on a V2 BB (or the other way around, I forget which), you've fucked up both parts. Get a caliper and measure the depth of the spline in the cranks to be sure.

    -Robot[all your base are belong to us]
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      CommentAuthorhowl
    • CommentTimeSep 16th 2008
     
    Also, the reason for the change from v1 to v2 is that v1 had a tendency to round out/strip the spline, which may be the culprit here.Troglodytarum is latin for troll
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      CommentAuthorg0balistik
    • CommentTimeSep 17th 2008
     
    surpriesfries- have you tried tightening your axle more?
  19.  
    ^yeah, i've cranked it as tight as i feel comfortable, then a little more than that. maybe i'm just being overly cautious?DFL and DTF :D:D:D:D
  20.  
    ^My worthless Internets diagnosis is that (as you suspected) there is a problem with the spline interface, though I've never encountered debris as a cause of failure. You shouldn't need to tighten the bolts too much, certainly not to the point of rounding the allen key. Remove the crank and inspect the spline already!
    -Robot[all your base are belong to us]
    •  
      CommentAuthorDan Roch
    • CommentTimeSep 18th 2008
     
    ^yeah just clean everything and then put it back togeather..Everybody was saying we must have more leisure. Now they are complaning they are unemployed - Prince Philip during the recession in 1981
  21.  
    Without even reading any of this post, I'm just going to skip to asking if you mistook your chainring for a Park Tool wrench and opened your UFO Hefeweizen using your bicycle chain, you cool kids.Jockin' Mike D. to my dismay!
  22.  
    ^Perhaps you should just go back to driving everywhere.[all your base are belong to us]
    • CommentAuthorPugatch
    • CommentTimeSep 19th 2008
     
    like they said above check your crank bolts also check your pedals and did you use antiseize when installing the BB? i remember when i got a sugino 75 crankset i had to get a new BB cause the stock one for the TruVativ wasn't compatible...

    I have found spoke cards, toe straps, headset, and seat loose all to make it sound like it was the bottom bracket or chain.


    also how dirty is your drive train? clean that shit! most likely old chain wore away the teeth and you need new hardware bro!Think of bicycles as rideable art that can just about save the world
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      CommentAuthorthepeo
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010
     
    I have fallen victim to the shittiest crunching from my chain/chainring while applying forward pressure only on the pedals. Applying no pressure and backwards pressure are silent. I've searched the forum for past advice and made the following changes:

    Different steel frame - definitely no cracks
    Appropriate BB spindle length so my chainline is correct (107mm)
    Swapped a 3/32 chainring for a 1/8
    Oiled my new chain (1/8 KMC Z)
    Cleaned everything
    made sure all bolts were tight

    I am about to replace this freakin' brand new chain because I can't think of anything else it could be. Are low end, $10 chains known to cause this? 46x17t ratio? Anything else?http://www.grafikmag.com/index.php?m=GR&sub=GRdetail&id=430
    • CommentAuthormauspad
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010 edited
     
    is your chain too tight? half an inch of slack up and down when you press on the middle of the chain with yr finger?
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      CommentAuthorthepeo
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010
     
    ^tried multiple tensions, 1/2" of slack was one of them...

    But to that point, too tight and you'd probably hear noise all the time right? I don't hear anything with zero pressure or backwards pressurehttp://www.grafikmag.com/index.php?m=GR&sub=GRdetail&id=430
    •  
      CommentAuthorDan Roch
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010 edited
     
    new cog? *i need to read things more carefully* The noise has happened to me in the past it sounded like my chain was going to snap, but like robot said it was because of a new chain/old cog combo.Everybody was saying we must have more leisure. Now they are complaning they are unemployed - Prince Philip during the recession in 1981
    • CommentAuthormauspad
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010
     
    crunchy bottom bracket?
    •  
      CommentAuthorrobotbuilder
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010 edited
     
    The one thing I don't see listed is if you've checked for matched chain-ring / cog / chain wear. If you think about the wear profile of the chain-ring / cog teeth, the majority of the wear occurs on one edge of each tooth, which is the side that transfers the force from your legs / pedals / cranks / axle to the chain, then to the cog, and finally the wheel thus moving you forward. Only hearing the sound when pedaling forward is consistent with uneven wear of your dive-train (DT) parts.

    Once things get too worn, you can't replace one part of the DT without replacing them all, or else you'll have problems, especially with them fancy shiftin' bikes. This may be the case for you, but I'd start with replacing the cog, since you've changed every other DT part.

    My 2ยข

    [:|][all your base are belong to us]
  23.  
    Could it be your pedals?
  24.  
    edit: my comment would only work if you made your bike left hand drive... so...
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      CommentAuthorDan Roch
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010
     
    cog wouldn't change only the wheel would get flipped, the cog still threads the same way.Everybody was saying we must have more leisure. Now they are complaning they are unemployed - Prince Philip during the recession in 1981
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      CommentAuthorthepeo
    • CommentTimeMay 24th 2010
     
    Chainring is used - no visible wear
    Cog is used - no visible wear
    Chain is new.

    It is fixed so no fancy shiftin parts...


    I'll put on a 15t cog and see if anything changes. If I were to just leave it how it is, would riding through it for a few days allow the chain to stretch and possibly work out?http://www.grafikmag.com/index.php?m=GR&sub=GRdetail&id=430
  25.  
    Dan Roch:cog wouldn't change only the wheel would get flipped, the cog still threads the same way.

    true... brainfart.
  26.  
    thepeo:. . . If I were to just leave it how it is, would riding through it for a few days allow the chain to stretch and possibly work out?

    Yeah. . . provided the chain-ring and cog have roughly the same amount of wear. Otherwise the chain can't stretch to accommodate both the 'ring and cog. Try it anyway. . . this is where experience trumps my conjecturing anyway.

    [:|][all your base are belong to us]