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Vanilla 1.1.8 is a product of Lussumo. More Information: Documentation, Community Support.

    • CommentAuthorBAUMANN
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2010 edited
     
    So, a few people have asked me recently about how I made my headset press so I figured I may as well just do a little write-up with some photos and post it here.

    DISCLAIMER: You can seriously damage your headset and/or frame from improper/incompetent use of ANY tool, especially one that you make yourself. Please, for the sake of your parts, do not attempt this unless you have some previous experience installing headsets with the proper tools. There is a lot of force involved in the process and proper alignment is crucial to the successful installation of a headset. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

    PARTS LIST (I don't remember exact measurements, these measurements were made after purchase using a measuring tape)



    1 - THREADED ROD - the one I selected was the largest diameter I found at Home Depot, .5" thick and 12" long.
    4 - METAL WASHERS - each 1.75" across with a hole large enough to fit the rod.
    2 - METAL WASHERS - each 2" across with a hole as small as possible to fit the rod.
    2 - NUTS - .5" one for each end of the rod.


    PREPARING FOR ASSEMBLY

    The only thing you really should do here is provide some sort of traction/cushion on the inside of the 2" washers for the headset cups to press against.
    I used 2 layers of gorilla glue tape, stuck on in a crossing pattern to cover any exposed metal on that side of the washer.
    I then trimmed the excess tape around the edges with a razor and cut the center of the tape (where the hole is) like a pizza, folding each pointed section back inside the hole.
    This excess tape (in the hole) can be cut away if you want, but i prefer to leave it as a sort of buffer for the threaded rod, to make sure it stays as centered as possible.



    ASSEMBLY

    Slide the 2" washers onto the rod from opposite ends, tape-covered sides facing inwards toward each other.
    Then slide two of the 1.75" (re-inforcement) washers onto each side, followed by a nut on each end.
    **It may be possible to use only one 1.75" washer to strengthen each side, but 2 doesnt hurt, so I figured what the hell, only makes it stronger right?





    USE

    Again, let me say that improper use of this tool can severely damage your frame, your headset, and im sure some of you might even find ways to damage yourselves in the process. Please, only use this tool if you know what you are doing.

    If you have used a headset press before, this part should be pretty easy to figure out.

    - Remove the nut and 3 washers from one end of the rod, grease up your head tube and your headset cups, then place the top cup centered and in position on the top of the head tube.
    - Insert the threaded rod down through the cup and into the head tube, emerging out of the bottom.
    - Place your bottom headset cup on the tape side of the 2" washer with the two smaller washers under it, followed by the nut. Side the whole thing onto the threaded rod and tighten the nuts until you have moderate pressure on the cups.

    MAKE SURE THAT YOUR CUPS ARE AS CENTERED AS THEY POSSIBLY CAN BE.

    - Tighten the press slowly with 2 wrenches, paying close attention to the angle of the cups.

    STOP AND RELEASE THE PRESSURE IF AT ANY POINT THE CUPS BEGIN TO GO IN CROOKED.

    - Continue to tighten the nuts until the headset cups sit flush with the head tube.
    - Release pressure by unscrewing one or both of the nuts.
    - Remove tool by unscrewing one of the nuts completely.

    -----

    And thats that. Hopefully that all made sense, forgive me if it was overly descriptive, just trying to make this "how-to" idiot proof....

    Total cost of the tool is around $10-15 I believe, I forget exactly what I paid for the hardware, it was awhile ago.
    Enjoy!RIDE METAL
  1.  
    I also made myself one of these and have used it several times successfully. A couple things that Eric pointed out that I'd like to echo:

    1) Try to get the inner diameter of the washers as close to the diameter of the rod as possible. This prevents the washers from sliding around, which could lead to you ovalizing your headtube or damaging your headset if you're not careful.

    2) If things start to go in crooked, STOP. (That's not what she said?) Once again, we wouldn't want anyone boogering their frame/headset now would we?

    3) Use a couple washers on either side, even though it might not seem necessary.

    4) If you don't think cushioning your headset is necessary, putting something similar to the gorilla tape washers he made into the press is still very helpful for traction and could be helpful when trying to not ovalize your headtube.

    These things are sweet and pay for themselves after one use. The TAGS in Porter has all the parts you'll need if you're a 'Villain like me. Thanks for the great tutorial, Eric.
    • CommentAuthorBRlAN Q G
    • CommentTimeOct 20th 2010
     
    Awesome.
  2.  
    1. hammer. 2. block of wood. 3. done.
    • CommentAuthorslowski
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2011 edited
     
    I saw this in another forum and laughed because I had never thought of this hack before.





    thought I'd post it here as it may be relevant in the search function.

    edited for incompetence, thanks Morgan!If at first you don't succeed... you fail.
  3.  
    Baron Fagrot:1. hammer. 2. block of wood. 3. done.


    ^^^^ Nut up, pansies.I prefer 49x16
    •  
      CommentAuthorMorgie
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2011
     
    <blockquote><cite> slowski:</cite>I saw this in another forum and laughed because I had never thought of this hack before.

    <img src="http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=18576&d=1299545154">

    thought I'd post it here as it may be relevant in the search function.</blockquote>

    eric your link is coded as a img and that page requires a login :-(
    • CommentAuthorslowski
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2011
     
    ok I tried it again, probably still screwed up, probably wasn't worth the effort but I still think it's funny.If at first you don't succeed... you fail.
    •  
      CommentAuthorMorgie
    • CommentTimeMar 11th 2011
     
    I would suspect both the starnut and the stem would move before the headset..
  4.  
    1. HammerYoung, dumb, and full of cum.
    •  
      CommentAuthorbikehost77
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2011
     
    i used the axles with washers, crown races, ect.. in the past, then i bought little wheels manufacturing consumer headset press, it sucked.. I broke down bought a real park tool press, I love it.. i got the crown race setter and the cup removal tool, anyone needs help installing parts, let me know.. I also have almost all bottom bracket toolsI ride bicycles better than you do!
    •  
      CommentAuthorratattack
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2011
     
    but do you have the crown race remover?! those things are so stupidly expensive for such a simple function & 30 seconds of effort!
    • CommentAuthorgc
    • CommentTimeNov 17th 2011
     
    i just bought the proper park headset cup remover today and it rules.gone
    •  
      CommentAuthorbikehost77
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    ratattack:but do you have the crown race remover?! those things are so stupidly expensive for such a simple function & 30 seconds of effort!

    no, I have used that Park Tool crown race remover on some carbon forks to remove the race..
    I haven't bought it myself because the price and I actually haven't had the need for it yet..
    I buy tools as needed..I ride bicycles better than you do!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfmradio516
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    just use a punch type of thing to get a crown race off.MUFFDVR
  5.  
    fmradio516:just use a punch type of thing to get a crown race off.


    and fuck up a nice crown race, or race ringTake-off everything but your rainboots
    •  
      CommentAuthorbikehost77
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    can't always use a punch, especially, when the whole backside the race in against carbon fiber, you need a pullerI ride bicycles better than you do!
    •  
      CommentAuthorfmradio516
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    crabonMUFFDVR
    • CommentAuthorBAUMANN
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    Stormy Arthur:
    fmradio516:just use a punch type of thing to get a crown race off.


    and fuck up a nice crown race, or race ring
    I use a wood block and a hammer, works pretty well if you can get under the race, just takes a little TLC. if you cant get under it though (carbon, integrated hs, etc) the remover is the only way to go.

    one day i will probably just throw down for the shop grade park press but for now the one I made has been holding up great, over a year of use and it still works great, has installed dozens of headsets without fail.RIDE METAL
  6.  
    you is talkin bout installing, they is talkin about removing.somebody turn the lights off on this place already.
    • CommentAuthorBAUMANN
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    no, i talked about removing a crown race (with a wood block and hammer) then i reflected on my past year using the tool which started this discussion thread. sir.RIDE METAL
    • CommentAuthorgc
    • CommentTimeNov 18th 2011
     
    brass drift pin is great for hitting a crown race with and not marring it at all.gone
  7.  
    ^^you is half irrelevantsomebody turn the lights off on this place already.